I had to do one with just hand tools. No power tools allowed on site, and dragging the door inside outside was a 15 minute ordeal each way. And had to do the frame by hand anyways…
So hand cranked hand auger for the lockset, and a chisel and hammer for the hinge gains. Took me a whole damn day to do that one door.
Yeah there is good reason to my madness when it comes to the number of tools I used, no faffing about changing bits or resetting jigs or manual measuring. I would reckon about an hour a door from unpacking it to having it fully trimmed and hung. Would have been a bit quicker but I went with magnetic latches so they needed a 80mm back box and my 1/2 router only does 70mm deep so I had to use the drill press with a Forstner to get the remaining 10mm clearance needed.
I have done doors by hand, thats about 3 to 4 hours for me if I do not have to make a proper square backbox and I can get away with a round one via an auger. I do not like the bite of an auger if the backbox depth is even remotely close to the edge of the frame for the door due to the bite you get dragging you in further than you intended even when turning by hand. I much prefer a Forstner, but I will be fucked if I am going to hand crank one of those into oak.
Its decidedly longer if my chisels aren’t sharp, having to hand sharpen them is a PITA when its more than once a day, I wish I had the space for a wheel to speed that up. Other dream thing is a 360 degree door vise that holds the entire door and lets you spin it 360 degrees without having to take it off your stands and hand rotate it. Would make switching from hinges to mortise to handles a breeze.
I worked as a Carpenter for a GC (employed, not contractor), so it was always a fine line between keeping us busy and being efficient by using the right specializations. Yeah I can do some drywall taping and mudding, but god if we aren’t busy, please sub that crap out, it’ll look better anyways. But I’ll also take the 3 days of pay instead.
Plastering I will only ever do for myself, and then only to save money as I am too tight to pay someone else to do it, much the same reason I do tiling or plumbing. They are one of those jobs like fine carpentry that is always better done by an expert with the years of just doing that.
Plasterboard layup often gets left to the builder in the UK, assuming they can actually level it properly.
You mean lath and plaster? They still use that? I mean installing drywall panels and taping the joints and skim coating. But yeah plastering is more like concrete finishing, an art, and definitely left to the professionals.
Would rather place and finish concrete over mudding and taping though, better on my hands.
I would still call it layup as we still use the same plasterboard panels in the UK if they are having a skim or a proper multi coat plaster finish, regardless if they going onto framing or dot and dab onto breeze blocks. We do have old houses that are basically brick on the interior so have render and then plaster on top of that, like nearly 20mm of it.
Its always my shoulder joints with plastering or large tiling that go first, always have too much gear on my board I guess.
I had to do one with just hand tools. No power tools allowed on site, and dragging the door inside outside was a 15 minute ordeal each way. And had to do the frame by hand anyways…
So hand cranked hand auger for the lockset, and a chisel and hammer for the hinge gains. Took me a whole damn day to do that one door.
Yeah there is good reason to my madness when it comes to the number of tools I used, no faffing about changing bits or resetting jigs or manual measuring. I would reckon about an hour a door from unpacking it to having it fully trimmed and hung. Would have been a bit quicker but I went with magnetic latches so they needed a 80mm back box and my 1/2 router only does 70mm deep so I had to use the drill press with a Forstner to get the remaining 10mm clearance needed.
I have done doors by hand, thats about 3 to 4 hours for me if I do not have to make a proper square backbox and I can get away with a round one via an auger. I do not like the bite of an auger if the backbox depth is even remotely close to the edge of the frame for the door due to the bite you get dragging you in further than you intended even when turning by hand. I much prefer a Forstner, but I will be fucked if I am going to hand crank one of those into oak.
Its decidedly longer if my chisels aren’t sharp, having to hand sharpen them is a PITA when its more than once a day, I wish I had the space for a wheel to speed that up. Other dream thing is a 360 degree door vise that holds the entire door and lets you spin it 360 degrees without having to take it off your stands and hand rotate it. Would make switching from hinges to mortise to handles a breeze.
I worked as a Carpenter for a GC (employed, not contractor), so it was always a fine line between keeping us busy and being efficient by using the right specializations. Yeah I can do some drywall taping and mudding, but god if we aren’t busy, please sub that crap out, it’ll look better anyways. But I’ll also take the 3 days of pay instead.
Plastering I will only ever do for myself, and then only to save money as I am too tight to pay someone else to do it, much the same reason I do tiling or plumbing. They are one of those jobs like fine carpentry that is always better done by an expert with the years of just doing that.
Plasterboard layup often gets left to the builder in the UK, assuming they can actually level it properly.
You mean lath and plaster? They still use that? I mean installing drywall panels and taping the joints and skim coating. But yeah plastering is more like concrete finishing, an art, and definitely left to the professionals.
Would rather place and finish concrete over mudding and taping though, better on my hands.
I would still call it layup as we still use the same plasterboard panels in the UK if they are having a skim or a proper multi coat plaster finish, regardless if they going onto framing or dot and dab onto breeze blocks. We do have old houses that are basically brick on the interior so have render and then plaster on top of that, like nearly 20mm of it.
Its always my shoulder joints with plastering or large tiling that go first, always have too much gear on my board I guess.