Smurftube in each corner and center of the ceiling of each room. As well as next to at least one outlet box on each wall.

Cat6E on the roof peaks and edges of the roof for cameras.

Neutral wires in all the light switch boxes.

What’s the coil voltage on your relay? Also is this a raw relay or one on a PCB with a diode, etc?

It sounds like your relay wiring might be a little messed up. Assuming you don’t have the auto return model, according to documentation on the US Solid site:

How to wire this valve?
In direct current (DC) situations, the red wire is connected to the positive terminal, and the blue wire is connected to the negative terminal. The valve opens when the yellow wire is simultaneously connected to the positive terminal with the red wire, and the valve closes when the yellow wire is disconnected and the red wire is connected to the positive terminal alone. This means that the red and blue wires are always connected to the positive and negative poles, respectively, and the valve is controlled by parallel or disconnection of the third yellow wire with the red wire.

So for that you want Red to the Positive on your 12 volt PSU, blue to the ground, and then the yellow on the NC or NO connection on the relay, with the common on the relay tied to +12VDC.

Check out Node-Red if you want an easy way to program on the PI and interact with the GPIO.

100% doable with Home assistant

doorbell (similar to ring with camera

Check out the Reolink PoE doorbell cam, works great with HA

connected speakers throughout the home

Check out Volumio, works great with HA

and connected lights preferably with a sleep mode (timer that slowly dims the lights), all connected to the same app preferably

Most Wifi/Zwave lights/switches are supported in HA, including Hue and Caseta.

Raspberry Pi for Home Assistant. And a second hand engineering workstation off eBay for everything else. Take a look at the Lenovo P700.

Who is doing the actual leg work of taking the “photo scans” of the properties being listed?

What is the commission your firm is getting per sale and how does that percentage compare to what a human agent would get?

What sort of “sanity check” is in place for making sure the listing prices are actually in line with reality? That seems to be the biggest problem I see with listing in my area is that people are asking 2-3X the asking price for properties that are clapped out. So what is going to stop this from becoming the “AI powered real estate” version of the tip screens that show up everywhere asking people to tip as a gas pump just because “well why not turn it on and see if someone throws us free cash” If you have an automated real estate system I immediately could see someone using that system scraping Zillow or other listings to get photos, cross referencing with GIS and bank data to figure out how much is owed on a property and then basically sending everyone the equivalent of those fake handwritten car dealership letters “we want to sell your house, you only owe $20,000 on it and we can sell it for $230,000 netting you a profit of $90,000, call us TODAY”

I think it will impact, but i think one of the big things is how trustworthy is the AI? I’m all for AI in my home automation, but not if it’s just being used to hoover up my data and sell it to another company.

What system are you looking to integrate it with?

The other thing to keep in mind if you got to a locally hosted, locally controlled smart home is THE SPEED. Coming from Smart Things to Home Assistant I was blown away how when I opened the webpage or app, everything was ALREADY loaded, and when I clicked a button stuff INSTANTLY happened. Smart Things was, open app (wait 10-15 seconds while all the devices updated their status in the app, press a button to turn something on, wait 5-10 seconds for it to do the things. HA, open app, boom it’s up, press button and there is no perceptible delay.

I would second this. I am always a proponent of PoE cameras, but if you can get an RTSP IP camera that’s wifi then really all that’s changing is the physical layer and it’ll work like a Ethernet cameras. Then it’s just LAN traffic. Block if from hitting the internet in your VLAN/firewall rules and call it a day.

If you’re really strapped for cash you can hack the firmware on a few of the Wyze cams to get RTSP out of them, but MAKE SURE you block them as they will CONSTANLY phone home and make sure you block via MAC not IP as I’ve watched mine pull different IPs in an attempt to get around IP level WAN blocks.

In the early 2000’s it was pretty cool. Nowdays I’d skip.