I’d say it depends on your needs. Since my home would consume four or five of these in a singe hour, I’d say that they were undesirable to me at any price.
For an application such as my own, a whole-house generator is the preferred solution. It costs as much as three or four of these, but can carry the house for days before requiring refueling.
Yes. You will need to use firewall rules to allow the IPs of the desired services and then deny all other traffic to-from the TV.
You’re challenge is that DDWRT only supports numeric IP addresses in its rules, and not Fully Qualified Domain Names(FQDN). So, for your current firewall, you will need to create a list of all the desired IP addresses and then create allow rules for each, or each subnet(range). You’ll need to update this list regularly as the individual IPs change semi-frequently.
A Pi Hole might work but it would be prone to leakage, letting undesired traffic pass, and not block hard coded IPs.
If you had a firewall that allowed you to use FQDNs in rules/policies then you could easily achieve your goal. there are several somewhat pricey commercial firewalls that can do FQDN policies. On the free side, pfSense/OPNsense can do FQDN policies using aliases. There may also be others that I am not aware of.
The pictured thermostat clearly lacks an R(h)/RC. So, the answer to your question is; no, not all thermostats have R(h)/RC.
This blog post explains two wire thermostats pretty well.
As you will learn in the blog post, your current wiring cannot utilize a thermostat that requires the R/RC wires for power. The thermostat for your pictured application would need to be self(battery) powered.
Z-Wave switch.
Better regulation can fix this problem.
#LOL
No.
Having bought and sold numerous houses, I’m quite sure that no current day AI will be a replacement for even a mediocre realtor, let alone a good one(top producer).
Strapping AI to FSBO won’t get the job done. Realtors provide a lot more than just an over-priced MLS listing. Their hyper-localized market knowledge is key and just one of several unique assets that AI can’t replace. At least not yet.
Homeseer has been running “Black November” all month.
Lots of good prices. Homeseer 4 Pro is, by far, the lowest I’ve ever seen it.
The main problem is that the Somfy RTS blinds do not report their position back to the remote and there is no “set position” command
How can you blame the Bond for it’s inability to report position, when the Somfy doesn’t report position?
I understand that it does not work to your desire and satisfaction. But, I feel that this is more to do with Somfy than Bond.
Is the DS18B20 missing “rapid changes” or is the SHT30 spewing inaccurate readings? A 2 degree spike from one minute to the next is possible, but it looks suspiciously like a bad/jittery sensor. Especially so for a sensor that claims 0.2c accuracy.
Video intercom? Yes, there are many.
Homeseer has what they call ZNet, additional hub like devices that connect back to the main controller, that address this issue well. The ZNet works with Homeseer and HomeAssistant, but I don’t know if it works with others. Perhaps Homey has something similar?
I encounter this type of issue all the time. People have different takes on it. Some are interesting, most are just selfish; ‘I’m inconvenienced and thus this is an outrage.’
But, I’m interested to know who’s really “at fault” here. Is it:
a.) Android for not allowing/enabling backward compatibility.
b.) Casper’s fault for not continually upgrading an already working product.
c.) The consumer for expecting a totally new hardware and OS to work the same as the old.
d.) the consumer’s fault for ever buying a cloud tied product.
I’m interested in everyone’s opinion.
Are you handy with Raspberry Pi? There are a few Raspberry Pi ANPR projects out there. It should be simple enough to use one and send a command to your home automation controller or make a cloudy API call.
The frequency is infrared. The pulse code is what would need to be changed.
I can’t speak for the no brand Chinese receiver. But I doubt that it has adjustable codes. The LG TV IR codes are not changeable.
You will need to:
a.) Replace the TV with a different brand.
b.) Replace the fan IR kit.
c.) Shield your IR transmitter and receiver so that it is more directional. But, depending an where everything is located, this could get annoying.
You have a good memory. I know that several Z-Wave dimmer lamp modules (e.g. Linear/GoControl/2Gig PD300Z) have this feature. Some manufacturers call it Auto-sense, but it might have other names at other vendors.
Any amplifier will do.
Want to blow an inordinate amount? Get a Sonos Amp.
Your post says 4-way, but the diagram is 3-way.
The TP-Link Kasa series is capable of 3-way installation. $-way installation is not supported by the Kasa.
I’ll answer your question first.
somehow trigger something to use hot water for like 10 minutes in order to get the hot water heater to recharge.
Look into hot water recirculation pumps. It will cycle the water for you, without waste.
These are typically intended for use where the shower/sink is far from the heater and there is a lengthy run of cold water before the water in the pipe is cleared. The recirculation pumps keep the water in the pipe hot, so that you don’t have to wait 60+ seconds for the shower to get hot.
Having said that; what you describe sounds like a failing heater. Either a failed heating element or a failed thermostat. There are two of each.
The WT00Z is a basic Z-Wave scene control button that should work with any Z-Wave controller. Though I do not have experience with Vinit.
The WT00Z can only be reset by Z-Wave Exclude. It would be my guess that the WT00Z is not properly Excluded.
Put any Z-Wave controller in Exclude mode and tap the WT00Z. I don’t remember for sure, but a double tap may be necessary for the Include/Exclude on this device.
After successfully excluding the WT00Z, you will need to perform an Include with your Vinit controller.
Some of us use a LOT more than that.
But regardless of the number, when planning for comfort, I plan for peak load. Average doesn’t help me when I need things to work. I opted for whole-house backup and it runs the entire house.