I lock up my bike all over the city. And I want a quick way to secure it. The bike isn’t expensive or specially attractive. But I want to deter casual thieves whilst having a convenient solution. Currently I have a 1.8m, non coily cable type lock that can go round trees and through frame and wheels. I’ve been considering a chain type, but that is harder to poke through spokes. And finding one long enough is not easy. Carrying it when riding should be easy too. Any tips appreciated.

  • JayleneSlide@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    Get a locking skewer for the front wheel. Get yourself a proper u-lock of the correct size for your bike and usual locking places. Put the lock through the rear wheel, triangle, and around a properly solid object.

    But really, a lot of this comes down to context. If you’re in a low bike crime area, the above instructions should be enough. If you’re in a high bike crime area, there are a lot more little things you should be considering, e.g. securing the saddle, waxing a ball bearing into Allen bolt heads.

    • ian@feddit.ukOP
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      1 month ago

      Thanks. My city is not a high crime area. Nobody steals frames or cuts wheels. A mix of casual theft and organised truck load theft. As many people don’t lock or don’t lock to something fixed if there are just trees. Which is why a long lock is essential.

      • Statfish@lemmy.world
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        1 month ago

        If you’re in a low bike crime area, I’ve never had a problem with a purposefully aged looking bike and a simple cable lock.

        • ian@feddit.ukOP
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          1 month ago

          I’ll not say low crime. That would jinx it. But certainly not high. I couldn’t find a worldwide city bike crime comparison statistic.

          So far a cable lock has worked. Plenty of people here don’t lock to a fixed obstacle. So are more likely to be the target.

          My ex splodged brown rusty paint all over her new white bike to deter thieves.

    • kersploosh@sh.itjust.works
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      1 month ago

      This has worked for me for years. The only thing I would add is to try to position your bike such that it’s harder to disassemble. Wedge it between a signpost and a parking meter, or a bike rack and a bush. Anyone with a couple hand tools and easy access can strip off components quickly and quietly. Make their task a little harder.

  • brap@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    D lock through the frame and rear wheel to the thing you’re locking to and a cable lock through the front wheel and, if quick release, the seat rails. Worked for me for a long time.

    Basically make it harder to steal than the one next to it.

  • FidelChadstro [he/him]@hexbear.net
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    1 month ago

    When I lived in a high bike theft area and rode regularly, I used all these points of security

    U-lock through rear wheel and triangle, cable for front wheel OR locking front wheel nuts, and an old bit of chain to secure the saddle.

  • i078@europe.pub
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    1 month ago

    As a Dutchy, I really like our frame locks. It’s enough for the quick stuff, but since you can walk away with the frame most allow to use them with a chain aswell.

    just make sure the frame allows one to be mounted

  • GalacticGrapefruit@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    Get a motion sensor that screams if someone tries to move it.

    In all seriousness, I’ve just generally tried to keep trips short and keep my bike in areas where I can see it through the window. If I’m going to one place and staying there for several hours (like a movie), I’ll carpool with friends or take the bus. Taking it to work or school, I’ll discuss the safest and most out-of-the-way place to keep it with maintenance and custodial staff. Knowing that the security guard walks by the bike racks is pretty fair peace of mind. But if I can keep my bike in the break room or a storage closet, so much the better.

    As in the way of Miyagi-do, the best block is “No be there.”

    • ian@feddit.ukOP
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      1 month ago

      I want to get about on my bike as much as possible. So I want to reduce the number of reasons not to go. Good lock. Quick to lock up. Good lights. Cheapish bike. Insurance. I value the feeling of freedom to go everywhere in the city. Motion sensor I hadn’t thought about. I’ll take a look thanks.

      • GalacticGrapefruit@lemmy.world
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        1 month ago

        I feel you there, my bike is my baby. I’ve been lucky that for the past several years, I’ve only lost a wheel or a headlight, and never my whole bike.

  • simbico@lemmy.zip
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    1 month ago

    I prefer folding locks over U locks, its a bit easier to lock the front wheel and frame to a weird shape. I can recommend the Abus Bordo series.

    • ian@feddit.ukOP
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      1 month ago

      Ok. U and folding locks on their own won’t go around fat objects such as a tree or lamppost. I’d need a second lock for that.

      I also want to keep locking up time down to as few operations as possible. Transporting a lock that is unlocked, ready to go helps here.

      • manuallybreathing@lemmy.ml
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        1 month ago

        I have a second wire / cable lock for locking to bulkier things, i keep it wraped around my bike frame, and use it to lock the backwheel

        i use a U-lock because it’s what I had when I got my bike, they are pretty annoying, buy i keep it looped over my seat

  • Semester3383@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    Kryptonite 'Evolution" chain and mini u-lock; you can wear it around your waist while you bike. Take the front wheel off, lock through the rear wheel, rear triangle, and front wheel; chain up to something that is extremely challenging to cut through, like light poles (not sign posts!). Take your seat and seat post with you.

    • ian@feddit.ukOP
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      1 month ago

      Thanks. I have a basket to drop a lock in. I’ll not take a wheel off though. I’m after a quick way to secure it. It’s not worth that much and it’s not a high crime area. But I expect they will take an unlocked bike. So I don’t want an excuse not to bother to lock it.

  • ian@feddit.ukOP
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    17 days ago

    Thanks everyone. I ended up with a sturdy 95 cm chain lock, plus a long loop-ended cable to loop around a tree and on to the chain.

    The chain is blimey heavy though.

    • meekah@discuss.tchncs.de
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      10 days ago

      why the chain plus cable?

      I thought either D-lock plus cable OR chain lock, as the chain lock combines reach of the cable with the security of the D-lock, but not excelling in either category, so kind of a middle ground.

      • ian@feddit.ukOP
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        9 days ago

        The chain lock is short and already heavy. Weight would be a big problem if it was longer. The cable is 180cm so goes around trees well without being heavy.

        • meekah@discuss.tchncs.de
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          8 days ago

          If weight is your concern, wouldn’t a D lock make more sense instead of the chain then? Or are you going for the chain so you can skip the cable when it’s not needed?

  • Paragone@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    https://duckduckgo.com/?q=kryptonite+evolution+1016&t=fpas&ia=web

    That’s the one I recommend for everybody, now…

    Sufficiently long, sufficiently secure, & manageable.

    If that’s too heavy, do check the weight & make a mock of that weight, to try on you while riding, then get the next-lower-security equivalent from Kryptonite, with the integrated chain, which is the same length ( if they have one ).

    Ride forever, eh?

    steel-wire “locks” can be snipped, with handheld shears. They are NOT security. Neither are “bumpable” locks: only disc-locks can be recommended, now.

    _ /\ _

  • ian@feddit.ukOP
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    11 days ago

    This is my new setup. ABUS 95cm chain lock with long looped cable. It’s easier to find fixed things to lock to, with the long cable. Fat trees etc. I might upgrade the cable to a thicker one though. I carry the lock in my basket when riding. But the cable remains looped through the frame. So now I want to find a way to stop it flapping around, and faster to deploy when I hop-on hop-off. Maybe a plastic clip on the frame? Do I really need to buy a 3D printer just for this?

    • ian@feddit.ukOP
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      11 days ago

      My tips for choosing a lock, aside from the security, some locks should be avoided.

      • Check the key shape. Some keys with edge shape can get narrow in the middle as a weak point and can break. If the lock is frozen you might need more force. I’ve had ABUS keys break. In a shop, look at the key shape. Or pick a type that is not keyed at the edge.
      • Can you lock it without a key? For convenience leave the lock open while riding. Step off and push it closed to lock it. Some locks don’t let you take the key out unless it’s locked again.